Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
