Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.
The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.
“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small place achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.
This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.
However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.
It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.
The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.
Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.
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